“Good idea,” says Deborah, gesturing to the darkening clouds with her umbrella. But as the tour has been laid on especially for us, we don’t have to wait around for anyone else so we decide to get underway immediately. This is a fascinating destination in itself, chronicling the rise and fall, and rise again, of Miami Beach’s fortunes throughout the twentieth century and beyond.Īs is usual for us, we’re very early. As the queer history of the city is inextricably intertwined with its architectural heritage, it makes sense that we meet Deborah inside the Welcome Center (sic – we’re in America after all) of the Preservation League. We are here for the Gay and Lesbian Walking Tour, organised by the Miami Design Preservation League, an organisation founded to preserve Miami Beach’s iconic art deco architecture. And not just about the increasingly unpredictable Miami weather. As we will quickly find out, Deborah knows an awful lot. Deborah clearly knows something we don’t. Bring a cooler, an umbrella and snacks, but leave flotation devices at home they aren’t allowed at Haulover Park.Our guide’s name is Deborah and she is holding an umbrella. The park is open from dawn until dusk, but the lot fills up quickly – especially on weekends – so get there early. Visitors can pay the parking meter using an app. To be near the gay beach, park in lot #1, the northernmost lot. On Tuesday evenings, food trucks gather at Haulover Park, providing a variety of dining options. In the northern lot, you can rent a boat. In the southern section of the parking lot, find bike rentals, a skate park, a dog beach and a charter fishing fleet.
Take advantage of chair and umbrella rentals on the beach (best to bring cash) as well as food and beverage service provided by onsite vendors. Don’t worry if you aren’t ready to bare it all – there are plenty of people who prefer to stay clothed while still enjoying time around “family” without body shaming. On the weekends, the beach is packed with locals and visitors alike working on their all-over tans. Gay beach-goers tend to gather on the northernmost section of the nude beach. On this nearly half-mile stretch of beach, nudity is legal and the vibe is very welcoming. The park is known as one of the best “naturist” beaches in the world. Haulover Park, about 11 miles north of South Beach, is famous for being the only beach in Florida with a clothing-optional area. There are a few street spots along Ocean Drive between 5th and 15th streets, but you’re more likely to find a spot in a parking lot.
The best parking option for 12th Street Beach is the city garage at 13th and Collins. When it’s time to refuel, you’ll find many restaurant and bar choices, including the famous Palace Bar, just a couple of blocks down Ocean Drive, and Twist South Beach, which is a couple of blocks west at 11th and Washington. The beach is dotted with rainbow flags near each lifeguard station. Bring your towel and sunblock it gets hot on the sand. Miami Beach Pride uses the park around 12th Street for the Pride Festival, which over the past 10 years has grown into one of the largest celebrations of gay pride in the region. 12th Street Beach is also home to the famous beach parties thrown each year by the Winter Party Festival and the White Party. It’s smack dab in the middle of the city’s Lummus Park, a green space that runs along Ocean Drive with volleyball courts, weightlifting equipment and public restrooms. In Miami, no beach is more popular with the LGBTQ+ crowd than 12th Street Beach. Of the two, 12th Street is known as the more raucous beach, but both are welcoming and beautiful places to spend the day soaking up the sun with friends. The city boasts two “semi-official” gay beaches: 12th Street Beach, with its rainbow flags, and Haulover Beach, with a designated “clothing-optional” area.
It’s no wonder that the beaches here are equally inviting. With its vibrant nightlife, bars and party scene, Miami has long been a hotspot for the LGBTQ+ community.